Porcini Mushroom Risotto

There isn’t limit to the imagination when making risotto as far as ingredients go. We all know that the key to replicating beautiful Italian recipes is to respect and follow the seasons. This said, the abundance of pumpkins and Porcini mushrooms at the local markets makes it clear what risotto we should be making in Autumn. Today I’ll share my recipe for Risotto con Funghi Porcini, because this was the first risotto recipe I learnt to make, over 20 years ago while visiting my twin sister Lisa, who was living in Florence. Her boyfriend at the time, (a local artist) patiently explained the step by step method to making the perfect risotto. He made me realise it was a serious responsibility to attempt to make risotto, and a responsibility which requires patience, love and tender care. It is a relaxing and therapeutic activity, so put on your favourite music and pour yourself a generous glass of wine when you start.  Risotto can not and must not be rushed. Lisa even has a cookbook that states you shouldn’t make risotto if you are angry or stressed. 

Porcini mushrooms are a delicious addition to any recipe and very popular in Italian cuisine. They are known as ‘gourmet’ and their retail price reflects this. The flavour is strong, hearty and nutty, and one could also say they are ‘meaty’. This species of Porcini are also known as the king bolete or cèpe in French. The Latin name is Boletus edulis. This mushroom reportedly has a high protein content, which makes them a great meat substitute for vegetarians. Fresh porcini are more common for sale in Europe than in the United States. When buying fresh mushrooms, one important thing to keep in mind is that worms like them just as much as humans do. Examine the stalk for small holes.  If you find them, stand the mushroom up on its cap and they’ll eat their way out of the stem.

You may still find some small worms after chopping the Porcini, or you might see them in the frying pan. They are tiny but the good thing to know is that they are harmless and quite common, so if you do accidentally eat a few you’ll be fine! (Think: extra protein)!!!

Risotto isn’t hard to make, but there are some things that you must keep in mind. The first most important thing is to choose the right type of rice. Carnaroli and Arborio are the most common varieties to use and another alternative is Vialone Nano. The reason these varieties are perfect for risotto is because they are short, plump and starchy. It is the starch that is responsible for the creaminess in risotto so please don’t wash the rice before cooking it.

After you have your rice, you must prepare your ‘soffritto’ – finely chopped onion, carrot & celery (for mushroom risotto though I usually just use an onion) cooked in Olive Oil until it is soft and translucent. Then the first part of cooking the rice comes from ‘toasting’ the rice, with the soffritto. This is really important and you must ensure the rice is covered with olive oil. Stir the rice over the heat, toasting it until the rice is hot. Usually white wine is then added, and when it has evaporated, boiling hot vegetable or chicken stock is added a ladel at a time to the rice. The other ingredients will be added, in this case the mushrooms, and to complete the ‘risotto’, the final important step is the ‘mantecatura’. To ‘mantecare’ just means to add butter and parmesan cheese to the rice, this is stirred through just before serving and this adds an extra creaminess to the dish. I use a combination of fresh and dried Porcini mushrooms, and I also usually add button mushrooms as well.

Porcini Mushroom Risotto

• 280g (1 ¼ Cups) Carnaroli Rice
• 3 fresh Porcini mushrooms
• 50g dried Porcini mushrooms
• 20 white button mushrooms
• 1 onion
• 1 garlic clove (optional)
• ½ Cup (250ml) white wine
• 1.5 litres vegetable or chicken broth
• 100g butter
• 100g Parmigiano Reggiano (plus extra for serving)
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• salt
• pepper

1. Heat the broth in a saucepan until it reaches a boil. Remove from heat and add the dried mushrooms. Put aside for 20 minutes. Once mushrooms have rehydrated, remove from the broth and pass the broth through a sieve lined with a clean tea towel. This is important to eliminate any remaining soil, or gritty bits attached to the dried mushrooms.
2. Clean the fresh Porcini mushrooms. DO NOT WASH THEM. Use a brush to remove any remaining soil from the base, and use a potato peeler to gently clean the stems. Slice them vertically.
3. Heat some extra virgin olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the button mushrooms until tender and golden. Set aside. Repeat with the fresh Porcini mushrooms, cook slowly until they are dark golden. Reserve these to garnish the finished risotto.
4. Meanwhile chop finely the onion and the garlic, and add to a large heavy-based saucepan with half the butter and a generous splash of Olive Oil. Cook on medium heat, stirring until soft.
5. Add the rice to the onion and garlic, stir and ensure all rice grains are covered with oil. Toast the rice until you can feel (carefully with your hand) the heat coming from the pan.
6. Add the wine and allow to cook for 1 minute or until wine has evaporated.
7. Add 1 ladleful of broth and gently stir until it is absorbed and the rice seems to be ‘dry’. Repeat with the remaining stock mixture until the rice is tender with just a slight bite being careful not to burn the rice on the bottom of the saucepan.
8. Incorporate the cooked button mushrooms and the rehydrated dried Porcini mushrooms to the rice as it icooks. Taste and add salt as required.
9. When the rice is cooked, turn off the heat and stir through ‘mantecare’ the remaining butter until the butter has melted and been stirred completely through the risotto. Now stir through the freshly grated parmesan cheese Place the saucepan lid onto the saucepan for about 2 minutes.
10. Garnish the Risotto with the cooked fresh Porcini mushrooms.  Sprinkle with extra Parmigiano and freshly cracked black pepper.

Serving suggestion: Add thin truffle shavings to the risotto or in absence of those, just add a few drops of truffle oil to each finished plate of risotto.

Risotto ai Funghi Porcini

Ingredienti

• 280g Riso Carnaroli
• 3 funghi porcini freschi
• 50g di funghi porcini secchi
• 20 funghi champignons
  
• 1 cipolla dorata
  
• 1 spicchio d’aglio (facoltativo)
• 250ml di vino bianco
• 1,5 litri di brodo vegetale o di pollo
• 100g di burro
• 100g di Parmigiano Reggiano (più extra)
• Olio extravergine d’oliva
• Sale e Pepe

1. Riscaldare il brodo in una casseruola fino a quando non raggiunge l’ebollizione. Togliere dal fuoco e aggiungere i funghi secchi. Metti da parte per 20 minuti. Una volta reidratati i funghi, togliere dal brodo e passare il brodo attraverso un setaccio rivestito con un canovaccio pulito. Questo è importante per eliminare ogni residuo di terreno attaccati ai funghi secchi.
2. Pulire i funghi porcini freschi. NON LAVARLI. Utilizzare un pennello per rimuovere eventuali residui di terreno dalla base e utilizzare un pelapatate per pulire delicatamente i gambi se è necessario.  Affettili verticalmente.
3. Scaldare dell’olio extra vergine d’oliva in una padella larga a fuoco medio-alto. Cuocere i funghi champignon finché sono teneri e dorati. Mettere da parte. Ripeti con i funghi porcini freschi, fai cuocere lentamente finché sono dorati. Mettere questi da parte per guarnire i piatti finiti.
4. Nel frattempo tritare finemente la cipolla e l’aglio, e aggiungere ad una grande tegame con metà del burro e abbondante olio d’oliva.  Cuocere a fuoco medio, mescolando fino a morbido e trasparente.
5. Aggiungere il riso alla cipolla e aglio, mescolare e assicurarsi che tutti i chicchi di riso siano coperti con olio. Tostate il riso finché non sentite (con attenzione con la mano) il calore che proviene dalla padella.
6. Aggiungere il vino e lasciare cuocere per 1 minuto o fino a quando il vino non è evaporato.
7. Aggiungere 1 mestolo di brodo e mescolare delicatamente fino a quando non viene assorbito e il riso sembra essere “secco”. Portatelo a cottura aggiungendo un mestolo di brodo alla volta e mescolando spesso.
8. Contemporaneamente incorporare i funghi champignons cotti e i funghi porcini secchi reidratati al riso.  Finite la cottura, regolare di sale e pepe se necessario.
9. Quando il riso è cotto, spegnere il fuoco e mantecare il burro rimasto e poi, con il parmigiano grattugiato fresco.
10. Guarnire ogni piatto con i funghi porcini freschi precedentemente cucinati.  Servire il risotto con parmigiano e pepe nero. 

    Suggerimento: aggiungere sottili scaglie di tartufo al risotto o, in assenza di queste, aggiungere qualche goccia di olio di tartufo ad ogni piatto di risotto.